Waterproofing second floor restroom

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This job was in Carson a. A customer from a previous job asked me to waterproof a new bathroom installation because of a leak that had gone into the IT room below.

Whenever someone installs a toilet there is a question of whether to caulk or silicon around the base. Here is my two cents. On a first floor concrete installation you should always caulk or silicon around the base of the toilet. This isn’t necessary but it looks nicer and iof the ring ever fails you have a second line of defense.

On a wooden sub floor you should never caulk or silicone around the base because if the ring fails water will be trapped and hidden in the sub floor and will cause damage even if there is water proofing. End rant.

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On this job there was a lightweight concrete deck on top of a plywood sub floor. In order to water proof this we used a product called hydro ban. Hydro ban will waterproof a solid surface by merely painting it onto the surface. Judging by the condition of the existing concrete I could determine there was no cracking or deflection in the floor. If the floor is flexing this need to be corrected before attempting to waterproof.

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A plumber had just installed floor drains before we came. It was obvious that any water leakage was around the toilet flange or where the floor meets the wall as naturally there is a small seam at these points. We used a cloth fabric designed for water proofing to cover these points plus the new floor drain and create a completely solid surface to water proof. Then we gave the floor two coats of water proofing material.

Now all the need to be done is too make sure the tile installers do no carelessly or purposely scratch the floor when installing the tile.

This method will stop minor flood or leaks. Obviously if water runs out from the restroom into the hallway the water proofing stop at the threshold of the restroom door.

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Rain water leaking into side of building

This warehouse is built against a small hill. As you can see in the pictures there are existing rain gutters that run into a concrete v gutter. This is how the water is supposed to tun away from the building. However you can clearly see that soil erosion keeps falling into the gutter and blocking the path of the water attempting to flow away. The long term effect is water pooling along he v gutter and flowing into the space between the building and the hill.

This warehouse is built against a small hill. As you can see in the pictures there are existing rain gutters that run into a concrete v gutter. This is how the water is supposed to tun away from the building. However you can clearly see that soil erosion keeps falling into the gutter and blocking the path of the water attempting to flow away. The long term effect is water pooling along he v gutter and flowing into the space between the building and the hill.

This is the hill funneling all water towards building.

 

rain water intrusion

This downspouts is buried under dirt.

 

Here you can see the gutter and downspouts

 

For whatever reason the owner did not like my suggestion of removing the tree replanting Ivy and building a new curb and gutter. But this was an expensive route so I understand their concerns. My second suggestion was to seal the existing concrete as best as possible and to focus on diverting the water away from this area. The roof drains from this 20+ square foot building all drained into this narrow corridor and essentially had nowhere to go.

The water from the hill was minimal so I focused on a solution that relieved a majority of the problem in an attempt to comprise the budget and the objectives.

sealing water intrusion

The application above is a typical roofing cement. Its not a great solution because even though we injected it into the cracks there will be future movement that will open them back up. But this was a cheap stop gap measure.

Secondly we installed the following.

commercial rain gutters

These are irrigation pipes with custom sheet metal spouts covered by a 1/4 inch screen. These are not pretty by any stretch of the imagination but they serve two purposes. The first is the sloped rain head with the screen allows leaves to flow right off the top and it prevents clogging which is a problem at this address. Second, the piping at the bottom can be run a long distance before draining to a location where it cannot be blocked by soils from the hill.

rain gutter distance run

rain gutter distance run

As you can see every drain or scuppers dumps into this piping system which is secure from clogs.

Finally below you can see a painted section of the gutter where the pipes carry the water far away from the building where it should have been running in the first place.

rain gutter

rain gutter

 

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Roof hatch installation

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This was a job in Santa Ana Ca. A customer had had me bid a larger 1+ million dollar project for them but had awarded it to another contractor. The project ended up being way behind schedule and way over budget. This is always unfortunate and I really would rather not come in and help out on these projects but I can’t leave the customer hanging so I did do some stuff for them.

On this job the needed a roof access hatch and ladder. They needed it fast and I had a two day window coming up to install the hatch. I hadn’t been to the job in almost a year so I only had some vague notes.

We showed up with lumber for framing, steel for welding and a roof access hatch from bristolite skylights.

The first day we laid out the hatch and cut our opening through the roofing material and sheathing. We then framed underneath with doubled 2 x 10 support around the bottom of the opening. We bolted the roof hatch in place.

Meanwhile we also cut and welded flat strap and 3/4 O.D. Pipe to make a 9′ tall ladder. The access was from an existing mezzanine so we only needed 9 feet.

We additionally welded a guard rail because the unit was being installed close to an edge. We didn’t have any plans but I followed code guidelines for all installation. Plus we did the job very clean and it looked professional so I knew the inspector would be pleased with the work.

The next day we came back and painted and mounted our new installations. The customer was happy and we even moved the condensate line that was in the way without complaining.

On day 3 the roofing company came by and finished it off.

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CSLB has new fees!

Insert witty quote from Benjamin Franklin about taxes here.

I found the new fee schedule here.

 

Application and Licensing Fees June 30, 2017
or before
July 01, 2017
or after
Original Application (exam or waiver for one classification) $300 $330
Initial License Fee $180 $200
Additional Classification (for existing license) $75 $150
Additional Classification (each) (with waiver or joint venture application for original license) $75 $75
Re-Examination $60 $60
Add New Personnel (for existing corporation or LLC) $0 $100
Replacing the Qualifier $75 $150
License Reactivation Application $360 $400
Joint Venture Application total fee for one classification
(Application fee plus initial license fee)
$480 $530
Home Improvement Salesperson Registration Application $75 $83
Asbestos Certification Application $75 $83
Hazardous Substance Removal Certification Application $75 $83
Fingerprinting Fees—Paid to Live Scan Operator
Dept. of Justice Processing Fee
Federal Bureau of Investigation Processing Fee
$32
$17
$32
$17
Live Scan “Rolling Fees”
Each Live Scan site sets its own fee—CSLB does not set the price. Rolling fees are available on DOJ listing of Live Scan sites
Varies Varies

 

License and Registration Renewal Fees June 30, 2017
or before
July 01, 2017
or after
Active Timely Renewal
(Postmarked or received at CSLB [for hand deliveries] on or before the expiration date)
$360 $400
Active Delinquent Renewal
(Postmarked or received at CSLB [for hand deliveries] after the expiration date)
(Renewal fee plus penalty)
$540 $600
Inactive Timely Renewal
(Postmarked or received at CSLB [for hand deliveries] on or before the expiration date)
$180 $200
Inactive Delinquent Renewal
(Postmarked or received at CSLB [for hand deliveries] after the expiration date)
(Renewal fee plus penalty)
$270 $300
Home Improvement Salesperson Timely Renewal $75 $83
Home Improvement Salesperson Delinquent Renewal
(Renewal fee plus penalty)
$100 $124.50

 

Miscellaneous Fees June 30, 2017
or before
July 01, 2017
or after
Duplicate/Replacement Pocket/Wall Certificates $11 each $12 each
Certified License History for licensed or unlicensed contractor, per name researched $67 $67
Certified License History for registered or unregistered Home Improvement Salesperson, per name researched $67 $67
General Status Letter $8 $8
Bond Status Letter $8 $8
Copies of Public Documents $0.10 per page $0.10 per page
Certified Copies of Public Documents $2 plus $0.10 per page $2 plus $0.10 per page

 

 

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New single office

One of the best reasons to call me is versatility. I can do the framing, electrical, plumbing, HVAC and drywall all with the tools I already have on the back of my truck.

This job is a perfect example.

This customer was moving into a new warehouse and was short one office. So they requested I build an 10 x 10 office for them.

Here is a picture of the space before we started. The office is to be installed in this corner.

On this project I did the metal framing and drywall.

Added a single light and suspended ceiling.

Installed a door and a window.

Dropped an HVAC supply and return.

Painted everything and cleaned up.

Here is the office after completion.

The job only took 4 days from start to 100% finish.

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Ring doorbell installation

This was a small job for a friend in long beach. We needed to install a ring doorbell into a building with no doorbell.

We purchased a kit from home depot for a new doorbell chime, Included in this kit was a 16v transformer. The transformer connects directly to a knock out on an electrical box. Using 18v wire typically used for HVAC control I ran the wire to the new doorbell location.2016-04-30 18.03.06

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Floor Patching and Leveling

This job was in Huntington beach California. The customer was a general contractor that had a floor in terrible condition. After consulting several sub contractors and product suppliers I was called to see if I could help patch the floor in a permanent and cost effective way.

Whenever I approach a floor with significant damage I consider the future use of the floor. The recommendations from other contractors were expensive and excessive.This area was owned by a property management company and was going to b used as a retail store with a short loop commercial carpet.

My factors to consider are;

Weather/ exposure – This floor is in southern California which has moderate temperatures and its also indoors so this is the best case scenario. Because the concrete will loose heat through the footing around the perimeter and the soil underneath I know that the top portion suffer only gradual temperature changes..

Installation Requirement – Because this is a short loop carpet the floor will need to be smooth and free of all but the smallest defects.

Appearance or Future Consideration – The landlord did not pay the GC to make the floor brand new. Only to apply materials necessary to accommodate this installation and future installation of a similar type.

My treatment of these types of situations is becoming very routine. The cracks and major holes are cleaned, primed with masonry adhesive and filled with rapid set brand’s Cement All. Cement all has proven both indoor and outdoor to grip existing masonry surfaces exceptionally well.

I also frequently mix pea gravel into the cement all when filling in very large or wide areas to compensate for cement shrink.

Here is the patched floor. These are some spots were the floor was in reasonable condition.

floor patching

floor patching

 

In other areas the floor looked like a grenade testing facility. In these scenarios i mix the cement all in a 5 gallon bucket into a soup and add pea gravel if i can. Smoothing the whole mixture onto the top with a squeegee.

Once all areas are in a reasonable condition I spray the entire floor surface with a glue using hudson sprayer. Then i mix a floor leveling compound and use a squeegee to fix an minor imperfection that may remain.

Typically this will eliminate about 99% of defects wich is good enough to let the floor guys touch up the floor as they see fit.

 

 

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Metal stud framing torrance ca

This was a job in Torrance California. I was requested to build a small metal stud enclosure to finish off an area which had no plan details for another larger construction firm.

This is a fairly typical and straightforward job. I used 20 gauge 6″ joist and studs.2016-04-29 07.02.09

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Demo of manuacturing

A lot of people think demoing is easy. It’ thankless work carried out by the dregs of society. But fortunately those dregs have been hired by me to complete this work and so they will at the very least have the best tools and instructions available.

This job was a little room where spirulina, which is a vitamin supplement, was placed into those tiny little pill cases. Fabricated from metal studs and plywood it was then completely covered with a  washable fiber reinforced plastic.

Here are some pics at the start.

 

demolish a vitamin manufacturing room

Here you can see all three levels of material; FRP, Plywood, Metal Stud.

complete wall construction

The ceiling was the hard part because we were demoing a suspended ceiling made from metal lath and concrete. There is only one way to demo this type of ceiling if you can’t cut the wires from above. It’s with the smallest impact hammer with a scraper attachment.

The ceiling must be scraped clean of the concrete and then the lath must be cut with shears.

 

Finally we are left with just an open space. After this  I turned off the fire sprinkler then cut and re-threaded the fire heads to a new height near the ceiling so they wouldn’t get broken. As well as cut out some old supply, drain and HVAC pipes.

 

 

 

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Italian restaurant remodel

This was a job in down town Los Angeles. It was an Italian restaurant that I never got a chance to eat at. It was also a night job which I don’t do anymore

The scope of work at this job was to remodel the office and bathrooms as well as some other aesthetic issues. As with anywhere in Los Angeles space is limited. This office was small and had no air conditioning

On the exterior we installed a mosaic for the owner and also leveled the concrete. This is the one thing I think they were disappointed with. The concrete color did not match either the interior or exterior and the mosaic was ok but not perfect. I didn’t promise perfection and I think it turned out good but I know there vision was a bit different.

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I also installed some sliding cabinet doors in the POS/ bar area. This included building a shelf for the equipment and running speaker wires through the attic. The owner was told it could not be done and I admit it was not easy. But nobody wants wires glued to the ceiling!

We also textured and repainted the office walls. This gave them a fresh feel. I then custom built them some wine racks and a desk with a matching storage unit for more wine.

The restroom remodel was key. They wanted something fresh and comfortable with an old school style. I had to demo everything skim coat the walls and level the floors. Add the chair rail and plastic floor base with an inside cove. I re installed all new fixtures over a very nice semi gloss paint and the restroom looked 10x better.

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This all happened at night and it was a very long two weeks!

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